Beyond Looks: Deepen Your Understanding of Fashion

Have you ever thought about what drove fashion and style to be the way it is as of today? Or, why it is expressed the way it is? Over the past decades and longer, fashion sense has changed, leading it to transform and conform to todays societal norms or "rules." You can search "fashion" on Pinterest and all the latest trends will pop up. But, how did we get here? Where did the inspiration of todays different styles come from?

Fashion history and gaining a deeper understanding about what and how it came to be is more complex than most would think. It gives you the tools to break the rules with intention, create with purpose and connect authentically with others. The creative minds have transformed, and even today, designers are still able to create new things, ideas, designs, and overall art. Having a creative mind and heart full of passion can take you far, but when you are guided by its history, your work gains depth, life, and true meaning to make a real statement.

Everyone has different views and opinions about fashion. Style exists in many different forms, each a mirror of identity and time. No matter how different one persons style is from the other, people have the right to express themselves. Even though different styles get easily separated into different genres, the history and influence of the past still remains and have made their impact. So, how can we learn a deeper understanding of fashion?

FASHION TIMELINE: Evolution Through the Past Decades

A great way to start gaining a deeper knowledge of fashion is from exploring its evolution in the past century. Most of today's trends are deeply rooted in these impactful historical events that took place over the past decades. From the 1920s to the 1970s, events such as World War II, the Great Depression and the rise of music and theater have all shaped and transformed the meaning and view of fashion. How did fashion shift and mold after these events, and how does it still linger in our present?

The Great Depression, being one of the most significant historical events, transformed and evolved fashion rapidly. From the 1930s to the early 1940s a major economic crash occurred and left the world in an extreme state of poverty. These events caused a major shift from the 1920s extravagant and luxe designs, to more affordable, functional and durable textiles. High unemployment rate caused the use of uniforms to become the new normal, reflecting the practical needs at that time. An important aspect of this period was the influence of Hollywood theater and movie sets on the fashion industry. For many, films were a way to find some distraction and escape harsh reality. James Stewart, Errol Flynn and Bette Davis were all actors during the Hollywood's Golden Age and were some of the most influential figures. The costumes used in this time inspired many people to find their spark in style back and started making replicas of the costumes they viewed in the film scene. Designers like Gilbert Adrian, Edith Head and Travis Banton created iconic designs for films that were very influential in high fashion and everyday wear in society. These actors and designers introduced the evolution of peoples fashion sense until our present day.

Vintage 1933 advertisement featuring elegant day dresses and capes in woolen jersey, highlighting the chic designs of Madeleine Vionnet. The image reflects the fashion trends of the era with detailed tailoring and stylish accessories, as seen in a catalog promoting knits as the latest fashion innovation.

In the early 1930s, women's fashion evolved to be a softer, curvaceous and feminine silhouette. The democratization of luxury became familiar and desirable, and people slowly started recreating and making affordable replicas of these glamorous styles at home. They took inspiration of Madeleine Vionnet, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli's designs, using cheaper textiles. Madeleine Vionnet mastered designs that allowed clothes to naturally drape and hug the woman's body with elegance, accentuating its curves. Her designs portrayed women in a sense of divine presence, which contrasted sharply with the past decade's androgynous, boyish look. Elsa Schiaparelli was a designer that revolutionized the fashion industry, bringing in surrealism to fashion pieces. She created bold, outstanding pieces which would often be seen as controversial. Her designs challenged what was "normal" in that time, using different shapes, bright colors and the combination of fashion and fantasy. Hollywood Patterns, a company that offered popular designs and latest fashion trends also contributed to the creation of replicas.

1930s evening dresses by Madeleine Vionnet epitomize vintage glamour with her pioneering bias cut and elegant draping. The gold dress features irregular piecing and distinctive sleeves, while the silver gown is subtly embroidered, showcasing Vionnet's innovative, fluid, and liberating fashion design.

MUSIC: Pop culture and fashion

Music and fashion, both being forms of self-expression, have shared a symbiotic relationship. Fashion inspires music, music inspires fashion. Both art, both forms of self-expression, and both influential in people's identities. As we've learned, fashion and style change every decade or so. Music is similar, throughout the decades, different genres have risen in popularity. Of course, this affected fashion and was immensely influential in many of the iconic trends that we see today. Each genre and band had their group of listeners and fans, who were also identified not only by their music, but by the style. We can trace the influence of some iconic musicians to understand their unique styles and how they have transformed in the past decades.

Mod subculture was a youth movement of fashion and music in the 1950s after World War II. It was a movement rejecting mundane traditions and going against social standards that were already set in the previous generations. The Kinks were a band from this era that had a big impact on society. Fans felt empowered and inspired by the meaning behind expressing themselves. They mocked superficiality and consumerism. They had a particular style, inspired by French and Italian fashion, and made the normalization of genderfluid fashion wearing tailored suits and such. Though they weren't officially a Mod subculture band, they still had a big impact on it.

As we all know, David Bowie had one of the most influential impacts on the entire world. He boldly went against societal and gender norms by embracing his androgynous identity. He portrayed different personas, and fully embodied them. With these characters, he inspired many and was able to grow the acceptance of androgynous features. Some of the clothing that he used to inspire and embrace these different characters included skin tight outfits, bright colors, ankle length trousers, makeup, long hair and pointed boots.

Vivienne Westwood wearing the provocative “DESTROY” t-shirt, a hallmark of her early punk fashion collaboration with Malcolm McLaren. The shirt features striking graphics designed to challenge societal norms and established values. This bold piece acts as a visual protest against corruption and authoritarianism, embodying the rebellious spirit and activism central to punk fashion.

Sex Pistols, from the 1970s, is another band that really challenged societal norms and rebelled against the media and the British establishment. Their partnership with Vivienne Westwood was incredibly successful, inspiring others to oppose and resist their governments actions. The band wore fetish-inspired clothing like pins and ripped clothes, along with provocative slogans. They used proactive and anarchist messages to get their point across.  

Indie music, introduced in the early 1980s, has had an impact in society up to today. The genre really resurfaced again since the pandemic and has been thriving ever since. Indie music challenges individuality and authenticity in people's hearts, encouraging them to go for dreams and desires. Self-expression has blossomed, influencing people to go thrift and use second hand clothing, make thrift flips or DIY projects. It is closely related to punk rock, which also challenged societal norms and pushed through boundaries. They embraced artistic freedom and experimented with different sounds and characteristics from other genres into one. They took risk with these new approaches to music and the different and unique ways to make it. Fashion and music mirrored each other. Both experimental, risky, and just full artistic freedom. It's as simple as it is complex, and anyone has the freedom to decide how far they want to take it. 

Recent music trends and popular artists still impact their fans and the way they view self-expression. As music transforms and evolves, fashion naturally follows, both reflecting identity. Everybody has a unique take on it, but exploring the connections between the two can also deepen our understanding of where and when these styles, designs, and cultural expressions come from and came to be. If you are passionate about this topic, and interested in learning more about how music and fashion reflect each other, I encourage you to keep researching not just modern music, but genres like R&B and soul, rock and roll, jazz, hip-hop and the Motown sound. Each one has played a big role in shaping and transforming sound and style through the past decades. So keep exploring, there is always more to discover to enrich your knowledge of both of these topics.

FASHION MAGAZINES: From the 1970s-2000s

Old fashion magazines and ads from the 1970s through the 2010s provide valuable information, to deepen your understanding of fashion. These archives offer rich visual records of clothing styles, designs, beauty standards and cultural norms. By comparing these with today’s fashion shows, magazines, and ads, it can show you how fashion has transformed and evolved, and how they have shaped today’s styles and designs. These decades were pivotal in the fashion industry. For example, the Y2K trends, vintage clothing revivals, and streetwear culture have roots from this time period. While researching these topics, we can compare how it has modernized and adapted to today’s changing world.

Magazines didn't just portray clothes, they reflected societal attitudes, gender roles and beauty standards. In the 1970s, magazines often presented a bohemian and disco style which was linked to youth and rebellion, while in the 1990s magazines embraced minimalism and grunge aesthetic. Iconic magazines such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and The Face have a big influence in the evolution of fashion discourse. The visionary editorials and photography featured in the magazines help define the visual language of fashion. I suggest you look into Anna Wintour's, Grace Coddington's and Herb Ritts' work, which were very influential and still are.

Cher in the December 1972 cover of Vogue, captured by Richard Avedon, with a bold look that embodies the early 1970s. The issue invites readers to explore "what's in the stars for 1973," promising insights into the year ahead.

• Jean Paul Gaultier and Yves Saint Laurent commercials and ads from the 1980s, showcased bold, dramatic and luxe silhouettes and styles that challenged norms and created controversy within the industry.

• Comme des Garçons from the 1990s, which pushed boundaries and inspired designers worldwide with asymmetry, abstract forms and deconstruction in the designs.

Fashion photography, lookbooks and old fashion ads from these decades also provide valuable resources for the study of fashions evolution, including marketing styles and the relationship with the consumer. In addition, the rise of technology and digital media began to transform the way fashion was consumed and produced, which has evolved, transformed and influenced the fashion industry today.

Fashion is not just about how a design looks, it's about how it feels, the emotions it stirs in people. How it guides them, opens their eyes to be able to see a new perspectives. It's about expressing the deepest feelings without saying a word. Fashion is about making a moving piece, that is portrayed differently, depending on people's experiences. It lets us express ourselves in ways that maybe nobody else can understand, but we understand it deeply ourselves. That is the beauty of it. Learning about how fashion came to be what it is today, what shaped and molded it, can help us look within and discover more about ourselves. As you keep learning about fashion's past and present, stay curious and open to new ideas. You never know how you will be inspired and make a spark in your own creative journey. I hope this has inspired you to look within and also look outside of yourself to learn from every perspective. Let fashion be the mirror where you meet parts of yourself you’ve never seen before.